ArdAzAei (@ardazaei)
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◊ Couture Maison engaged in the search for the sublime.
◊ GOTS certified by Ecocert Greenlife 257263.
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 19: A two-piece look inspired by the rhythms of the coral reef, combining lambskin with a sheer charmeuse silk bespoke printed with a degradé sea urchin pattern which transitions from highly saturated colours to soft, faded pastels. The sculptural skirt gathers more than 25 metres of the charmeuse silk in waves, an effect echoed in the undulating quilting of its top. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @athieccholmalel
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 18: A fitted gown in a lustrous jacquard serves as the surface for hundreds of draped layers of sheer fabric to radiate diagonally from its heart before they are released from their precise positioning at the sleeves and high central split to fall in a sea of movement inspired by the arms of a jellyfish. The base of the gown is made from a laminated silk and lurex jacquard, while the draping consists of layers of Japanese super organza, chiffon, and a shimmering changeante mousseline. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @nickirafaelalappas
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 17: Fitted dress scrupulously draped in geometrical shapes around the body, fusing into three voluminous levels which gather more than 80 metres of fabric into light, organic ruffles. The fabric is a sheer charmeuse silk with a slight shimmering satin effect, custom-printed with a pattern inspired by the sea urchin. Through a delicate degradé technique, its colours transition from the highly saturated to soft, faded pastels, as the pleats reveal stripes alternating in rhythm between light and dark, adding fluidity and a sense of mystery to the silhouette. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @itspaulasoares
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 12: A gown adorned with twenty handmade macramé sea urchins climbing around the hips and corset cups. The skirt is fitted until the knees, where it merges into a structured crinoline with raw vertical hems, creating a cupped, half sea urchin shape. Spinel stones embellish the sea urchins and reflect the light; a hooded chiffon veil, which gathers to a point at the back of the corset and falls in a long train. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud Model @acholayor
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 11: Sculptural dress formed of a signature corset in cotton satin combined with a lambskin bolero jacket and a pleated organza skirt which merges into a half-shell below the knee. Volume is given by the skirt’s flexible crinoline, which gathers layers of rigid and soft silk organza to create a 300-metre-long hem, and the impression of pleats bouncing diagonally towards the legs with every step. The bolero jacket is lined with a pattern reminiscent of the texture of a sea urchin’s shell. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @eduardamuehlmann_
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 10: An homage to the ocean and the maritime roots of macramé, the technique of knotting cord created by sailors at sea, this look sees the collection’s signature corset adorned with thirty-four soft macramé sea urchins. These talismanic sea urchins, crafted from silk chiffon and embellished with pearls, are created by hand, taking between four and six hours each, depending on their size. The straps of the dress are also in a macramé that extends to the lower back, where the lacing of the corset forms the initial ‘V’. Tendrils of chiffon at the legs sway like kelp forests, one of the sea urchin’s natural habitats. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @aluelkeror
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 9: The unique ‘memory’ of a metallic fabric, composed of double-stainless steel, silk, and cotton, imbues its pleats with the aura of protection, and this evening gown contrasts two different pleating techniques to evoke the irregulars surface of seashells, and through featherlight ruffled volants in cotton voile and silk, the sways of soft coral. The pleats lie on abase of silk gazar and triple organdis. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @ombelinnee
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 8: A GOTS-certified dress (Organic, certified by Ecocert Greenlife 257263) in a sheer, silk georgette witha silk gazar corset covered in dozens of carefully hand-pleated circles that recreate the impression of rings rippling across thesurface of water. The pleats are mirrored on the front and back of the dress, creating a distinct yet soft extension of the shoulders,and dance down the right leg with movement. Raw hems lend an aura of fragility to the strong silhouette. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @rejoice_chuol
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 7: Furthering the exploration of fragility, this evening gown sees horizontal and vertical pleats in a unique vintage fabric composed of a blend of double-stainless steel, silk, and cotton, creating a layer of armour around a skirtwhich radiates out from the knees in a series of geometric volants. As seen in the previous look, the silk gazar corset has been kept visible, like an exoskeleton. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @xuwei.xuwei_
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 4: This evening gown sees the collection’s signature corset extend down into a short train, with vertical lines highlighted through raw hems. The gown features a unique interplay of fabrics, where a layer of cotton tulle is placed in an opposite direction above a layer of lurex, creating a pattern of small sea urchins that shine through the dress. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @famke.vanhasselt
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 2: Exploring sculptural structures, this GOTS-certified silk georgette dress (Organic, certified by Ecocert Greenlife 257263) features fine pleats and folds that extend from a long, silk gazar corset sitting below the hips. Through its light transparency, the pleated georgette of its cone-shaped skirt creates an illusion of geometric volume and distance. The cups of the corset and the vertical spines of the skirt are adorned with raw ruffles from the distinct pleating, while a long-sleeved draped top elongates the dress. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud Model @wirs_viktoria
THE FOLDED SEA ◊ Look 1: The collection opens with a GOTS-certified coatdress (Organic, certified by Ecocert Greenlife 257263) demonstrating ArdAzAei’s signature tailoring, while its high collar and strong shoulders, coupled with the buckled waist, reveal the new collection’s silhouette. Cut from a dynamic cotton twill the front sees draping rise above the neck, and the folds of its back form the initial ‘A’. The pencil skirt, with voluminous pleated silk georgette godets placed around the hem, flows with movement. ◊ THE FOLDED SEA introduces two new shoe archetypes in a range of metallic pastel tones and a patent black: a Sculptural Pump and a Graphic Slingback. Both shoes feature a pinched silhouette with a sharp profile, a comma heel, and ArdAzAei signature metal detailing. Photographed by Léo Arnaud @leoarnaud__ Model @anasofianegrutsa